The sharp, salty scent of the sea, the gentle lapping of water against ancient stone, and the feeling of discovering a place untouched by time, that’s Mġarr ix-Xini. Forget the bustling crowds and overflowing beaches for a moment. This is a different side of Gozo, a secluded fjord-like bay carved deep into the island’s southern coast, whispering tales of knights, pirates, and Hollywood stars. If you love discovering places like this, you might also enjoy exploring other hidden beaches in Gozo where the island’s wild coastline reveals secluded coves and untouched swimming spots.
As a local, this is one of those places we hold dear, a slice of authentic Gozo that rewards those willing to venture slightly off the beaten path. For years, this bay was a secret shared among Gozitans, a favourite spot for a quiet afternoon swim and a plate of fresh fish. Even after Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt chose its rugged beauty as the backdrop for their film ‘By the Sea’, Mġarr ix-Xini has managed to hold onto its tranquil, rustic charm. It’s a place that invites you to slow down, to breathe in the history, and to simply be.
Local Tip: Before you even head down, take a moment to appreciate the view from the top of the valley. The way the deep blue water cuts through the limestone cliffs is one of Gozo’s most breathtaking sights. It’s the perfect introduction to the magic that awaits below.
Ready to explore one of Gozo’s most captivating bays? Let’s dive in.
Quick Visitor Information
| Category | Details |
| Location | South Coast of Gozo, between the villages of Xewkija and Sannat |
| Best Time to Visit | May–June or September–October for pleasant weather and fewer crowds. For swimming, July–August is best, but arrive before 10:00 to get parking. |
| How to Get There | By Car (easiest, but parking is very limited), By Private Boat (most scenic), or By Foot (a beautiful hike from Ta’ Ċenċ cliffs). |
| Entry Fee | Free |
| Time Needed | 2–4 hours for a swim and a bite to eat. Half a day if you plan on hiking or extensive snorkelling. |
| GPS Coordinates | 36.0197° N, 14.2718° E |
What Makes Mġarr ix-Xini So Special?
Mġarr ix-Xini (pronounced Im-jarr ish-Shee-nee) is more than just a pretty pebble beach. Its name translates to “Port of the Galleys,” a direct nod to its history as a secluded harbour. The bay is a deep, narrow inlet that stretches inland, creating a protected waterway that has been strategically important for centuries.
A Storied Past: Knights, Invasions, and Defence
The bay’s geography made it a perfect, discreet port for the galleys of the Knights of St. John. They could hide their ships from sight here, ready to be deployed. But this seclusion was a double-edged sword. In 1551, it was this very bay that Ottoman forces used as an embarkation point during one of Gozo’s darkest chapters. After a brutal siege on the Cittadella, the island’s fortified city, thousands of Gozitans were captured, marched down to Mġarr ix-Xini, and forced onto ships, destined for slavery.
In response to such threats, the Mġarr ix-Xini Tower was constructed in 1661. This coastal watchtower, one of many built by the Knights, stands guard at the mouth of the bay. It was part of a sophisticated communication system, using fire and smoke signals to warn the Cittadella of approaching danger. Today, it’s cared for by the NGO Wirt Għawdex (Gozo Heritage) and is occasionally open to the public. It’s a stark reminder of the island’s turbulent past.
A Geological Wonder
The bay itself is a classic example of a wied, the Maltese word for a valley carved out by water over millennia. The steep, rugged cliffs that line the inlet are a testament to the power of nature. The beach isn’t sandy; it’s made of smooth, white pebbles, which is why the water here is so astonishingly clear. The lack of sand means visibility is incredible, making it a paradise for underwater exploration.
If sandy beaches are more your style, Gozo also has some incredible options like Ramal Bay’s famous red sand at Ramla Beach or the peaceful valley setting of San Blas Beach nearby.
How to Get to Mġarr ix-Xini
Getting to Mġarr ix-Xini is part of the adventure. The journey down is as memorable as the destination itself. You have three main options:
| Method | Pros |
| By Car | Fastest, most convenient for carrying gear |
| By Private Boat | Stunning coastal views, no parking stress, unique arrival |
| By Foot (Hiking) | Breathtaking scenery, completely free, good exercise |
Getting There By Car
This is the most common way to visit. From Victoria (Rabat), follow the signs towards Sannat or Xewkija. As you get closer, you’ll see signs for Mġarr ix-Xini. The main road is fine, but the final descent into the bay is a very narrow, steep, and winding single-lane road. Be prepared to pull over for oncoming traffic. Parking is the biggest challenge. There are only a handful of spots at the bottom. In summer, if you arrive after 10:00, you will almost certainly have to park further up the hill and walk down.
Local Tip: If you’re renting a car, choose a smaller model. It will make navigating the narrow road and finding a parking spot significantly easier. Don’t even think about bringing a campervan down here!
Getting There By Private Boat
Arriving by sea is, without a doubt, the most magical way to experience Mġarr ix-Xini. You get to see the dramatic coastline and the watchtower from the water, just as sailors would have for centuries. It completely bypasses the stress of the drive and the parking nightmare. Many of our GOZOblu private boat tours include a stop here for a swim in the crystal-clear waters.
Planning a day on the water? Chat with us on WhatsApp and we can help you build the perfect private tour that includes a stop at Mġarr ix-Xini.
Getting There By Foot
For the active traveller, hiking to Mġarr ix-Xini is a fantastic option. There are several trails, but one of the most popular starts from the village of Sannat or near the Ta’ Ċenċ cliffs. The walk takes you through beautiful, terraced farmland and along the top of the gorge, offering spectacular views down into the bay. The hike is roughly 2-3 kilometres depending on your starting point. Just be sure to wear sturdy shoes and bring plenty of water, especially in the summer months.
The Best Time to Visit
Your experience of Mġarr ix-Xini can change dramatically depending on when you go.
- For Ideal Weather & Fewer Crowds (Spring & Autumn): The months of May, June, September, and October are the sweet spot. The weather is warm and sunny, perfect for hiking and sightseeing, but the summer crowds haven’t arrived or have already departed. The sea is still pleasant for a swim.
- For Swimming & Sunbathing (Summer): If your main goal is to swim and soak up the sun, then July and August are the hottest months with the warmest water temperatures. The trade-off is that this is peak season. You must arrive early (before 10:00) to secure a parking spot and a good spot on the pebble beach.
- For Peace & Quiet (Time of Day): Regardless of the season, the bay is quietest in the early morning (before 10:00) and the late afternoon (after 16:00). The midday hours are when it’s busiest with both land and sea visitors.
What to Expect When You Arrive
As you make the final turn, the valley opens up to reveal the bay. The first thing you’ll notice is the incredible colour of the water, a deep, transparent turquoise that beckons you in. The beach is small and pebbly, so water shoes or flip-flops are a very good idea.
With its calm turquoise water and natural protection from strong currents, Mġarr ix-Xini is also considered one of the best places to swim in Malta.
To one side, you’ll find the famous Mġarr ix-Xini Restaurant, a simple, family-run establishment known for its incredibly fresh seafood. This is the only building right on the bay. You can rent sunbeds and umbrellas for the day, though the space is limited. During the summer months, lifeguards are on duty, making it a safe spot for a dip.
The atmosphere is laid-back and rustic. There are no shops, no loud music, just the sound of the sea and the chatter of fellow visitors. It feels a world away from the more developed tourist spots.
Top 5 Things to Do at Mġarr ix-Xini
While it’s a perfect place to do nothing at all, Mġarr ix-Xini offers plenty for the active visitor.
1. Snorkelling & Diving
This is arguably the number one activity at Mġarr ix-Xini. The pebble beach means the water clarity is exceptional. As you swim out from the shore, the seabed drops away, revealing a fascinating underwater world of seagrass meadows and rock formations. Look for colourful parrotfish, bream, and the occasional octopus hiding among the rocks. It’s one of the reasons this bay regularly appears on lists of the best places to snorkel in Malta thanks to its incredible visibility and sheltered waters.
The bay is also a renowned diving location, with several interesting dive sites including the wreck of the MV Xlendi. However, the wreck itself is now considered unsafe for penetration and is only for very experienced divers to view from the outside.
2. Hike to the Watchtower
A short but steep path leads from the bay up to the Mġarr ix-Xini Tower. The walk takes about 10-15 minutes and rewards you with a commanding view of the entrance to the bay and the open sea. Check the Wirt Għawdex website for the tower’s opening days and times if you’d like to see inside.
3. Enjoy a Legendary Seafood Lunch
You can’t visit Mġarr ix-Xini without considering a meal at the restaurant. It’s an institution. The menu is simple and depends on the day’s catch. Imagine sitting just metres from the water, enjoying grilled fish that was swimming in the sea that very morning. It’s essential to book in advance, especially for a weekend lunch.
4. Kayaking
The calm, protected waters of the bay are perfect for kayaking. It allows you to explore the nooks and crannies of the cliffs up close and venture out towards the mouth of the bay for a different perspective. You can sometimes rent kayaks on-site during the summer, or bring your own.
Adventurous visitors often combine coastal exploration here with other rugged swimming spots such as Wied il-Għasri’s dramatic sea gorge on Gozo’s northern coast.
5. Discover Kantra Beach
For those seeking even more seclusion, a path leads from the main bay over to the Kantra Lido. This is part of a hotel but is often accessible to the public. It’s a stunning spot with a beautiful natural pool carved into the rocks, offering a more ‘managed’ but equally beautiful swimming experience.
A Local’s Guide: Practical Tips for Your Visit
To make the most of your trip, keep these insider tips in mind:
- Beware of Cliff Jumping: You may see some people jumping from the cliffs, but this is extremely dangerous and not recommended. There are underwater rocks and the depth can be deceiving. There are memorial stones in the area for a reason.
- Wear Water Shoes: The pebble beach is beautiful but can be tough on bare feet. A pair of water shoes will make getting in and out of the sea much more comfortable.
- Bring Cash: While the restaurant may accept cards, it’s always wise to have some cash on you, especially if you plan on renting a sunbed or umbrella.
- Facilities are Limited: There are no public toilets or showers. The only facilities are for customers of the restaurant. Come prepared.
- Pack Light, but Smart: Bring everything you need for the day—water, snacks, sunscreen, a hat, and a good book. There are no shops to buy supplies.
- Respect the Environment: This is a natural, relatively untouched bay. Please take all your rubbish with you and leave the place as you found it.
Exploring by Private Boat: The Ultimate Way to See Mġarr ix-Xini
While visiting by land is wonderful, seeing Mġarr ix-Xini from the sea is an unforgettable experience. It gives you a true sense of its scale and its history as a protected harbour. On a private boat tour, you can anchor in the middle of the bay and dive straight into the deep, refreshing water, away from the shoreline crowds. Many travellers find that a private boat tour in Malta offers the best way to experience secluded bays like Mġarr ix-Xini without the parking stress.
If you’re considering this option, it’s helpful to understand common mistakes people make when booking boat tours in Malta so you can choose the right experience.
Our GOZOblu tours are designed to show you the very best of the Gozitan and Comino coastlines. A stop at Mġarr ix-Xini is a highlight of our longer Gozo-focused trips, like the 6-Hour Private Tour or the ultimate 8-Hour Full Gozo Coastline Tour. We can tailor the day to you, spending as much or as little time as you like exploring this historic bay.
It’s the perfect way to combine a visit to this iconic spot with other coastal gems like the Blue Lagoon and Crystal Lagoon, all without worrying about a single parking spot.
What’s Worth Visiting Near Mġarr ix-Xini?
Once you’ve soaked up the beauty of the bay, there’s plenty more to see just a short drive away.
- Xewkija Rotunda: Just a 10-minute drive away is the village of Xewkija, dominated by its magnificent church. The dome is the third largest unsupported dome in the world, and you can take a lift to the top for incredible 360-degree views of Gozo.
- Sannat & Ta’ Ċenċ Cliffs: The village of Sannat is the gateway to the majestic Ta’ Ċenċ cliffs, the highest cliffs in Gozo. It’s a stunning spot for a walk, especially at sunset.
- Għajnsielem: This village overlooks the Mġarr Harbour where the ferry from Malta arrives. Don’t miss the ‘Għajnsielem Fields’, a beautiful area of farmland with walking paths, and the quirky ‘Bethlehem f’Għajnsielem’ nativity village which is a fascinating attraction even outside of Christmas.
If you’re exploring Gozo’s coastline, consider visiting charming fishing coves like Daħlet Qorrot Beach, another authentic local swimming spot tucked away on the island’s northern shore.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is Mġarr ix-Xini sandy?
A: No, Mġarr ix-Xini is a pebble beach. The pebbles are smooth and white, which contributes to the water’s amazing clarity, but water shoes are recommended for comfort.
Q: Can you swim at Mġarr ix-Xini?
A: Absolutely! The bay’s calm, clear, and protected waters make it one of the best swimming and snorkelling spots in Gozo. Lifeguards are also on duty during the summer months.
Q: Is there parking at Mġarr ix-Xini?
A: Yes, but it is extremely limited. There is a small parking area right at the bay, but it fills up very quickly, especially in summer. Be prepared to park further up the steep hill and walk down.
Q: Was a movie filmed at Mġarr ix-Xini?
A: The bay was the primary filming location for the 2015 movie ‘By the Sea’, directed by Angelina Jolie and starring Jolie and Brad Pitt. This brought international attention to the previously quiet bay.
Q: How do you pronounce Mġarr ix-Xini?
A: The name is pronounced “Im-jarr ish-Shee-nee”. ‘Mġarr’ means port or harbour, and ‘ix-Xini’ refers to the galleys or ships that used to shelter here.
Q: Are there jellyfish at Mġarr ix-Xini?
A: Like anywhere in the Mediterranean, jellyfish can occasionally be present, usually depending on the currents and time of year. The bay’s enclosed nature can sometimes trap them. It’s always a good idea to look before you leap in.
Q: Is Mġarr ix-Xini good for families?
A: Yes, it can be. The calm water is great for children. However, the pebble beach, lack of public facilities, and difficult parking can be challenging for families with very young children. Arriving by private boat can make it a much easier and more enjoyable experience for families.
Q: What is the best GOZOblu tour to visit Mġarr ix-Xini?
A: For a dedicated Gozo coastal experience that includes a good amount of time at Mġarr ix-Xini, we recommend our 8-Hour Private Tour. This gives you the flexibility to explore the entire coastline at your own pace. For a shorter trip that still takes in some of Gozo’s best spots, the 6-Hour Private Tour is a great option.
There’s a reason Mġarr ix-Xini captures the hearts of locals and visitors alike. It’s a place that feels real, a direct connection to Gozo’s natural beauty and rich history. Whether you arrive by land or by sea, take the time to appreciate its unique atmosphere. It’s a memory of Gozo that will stay with you long after you’ve brushed the salt from your skin.
Ready to see it from the best seat in the house? Send us a message on WhatsApp, and let’s start planning your private Gozo boat adventure today!
